Bom Jesus da Lapa
Situated
on the banks of the São Francisco River, in the back
country of Bahia, Bom Jesus da Lapa is a famous pilgrim center,
that over 800,000 people visit every year, chiefly in July.
The
shrines and sanctuaries people come to revere are inside 15
caves in the surrounding hills. The larger, maze-like caves,
that are most visited, are Senhor Bom Jesus, Nossa Senhora da
Soledade and Santa Luzia. Curiously, the stalactite and
stalagmites formations inside of the caves provide supports for
statues and images, and even for the baptismal font. Most
pilgrims come to Bom Jesus in buses or trucks from other parts
of the Bahia interior, and from Minas Gerais. The streets are
lined with dozens of booths where Bom Jesus wristbands and
T-shirts are sold, as well as replicas of body parts.
These
are taken into the caves with request for miracle, or in thanks
for divine favors. Intermingling with the sacred item stalls,
gaily decorated, brilliantly lit booths selling, apart from
religious memorabilia, plastic toys, flowers and other
inexpensive souvenirs.
The
typical Northeastern musicians and poets complete a scenario
into which profane aspects have increasingly been incorporated.
Visitors
also can have their pictures taken. Many also climb the hill
higher, above the caves, for the view over the city and the São
Francisco River. At these times, the town administration also
organises shows and presentations with regional bands and
theater groups. Hotels and guesthouses are packed. The Bom Jesus
religious tradition began in the early 17th century.
Now, from July to September pilgrims from several parts of
Brazil dominate the streets of the city. The populace is very
proud of the São Francisco River.
A
big bridge spans it near Bom Jesus. The pier under it has become
a meeting point for fishermen, and also visitors, who can go for
boat rides. Life there is directly connected to the river all
the time.
The
economy of Bom Jesus is based on irrigated subsistence farming,
and water is taken from the São Francisco, and also the
Corrente River which crosses the Sitio da Mata district, near
Bom Jesus. Castle and pigs are also raised on a small scale. A
common sight when on a boat ride will be men fishing, women
washing cloths and children playing along the banks.

